The gilding

How to find your way around?

In jewelry, we often hear about: gold plated , gold plated , gold filled …

Terms that evoke quality, but are not always easy to understand.

So, concretely: What does that mean? What are the differences? And above all, which finishes really last?

Gilded with fine gold

It is a thin layer of gold (often between 0.03 and 1 micron) more like a gold “flash” on a brass base. It is an affordable gold finish since it contains little gold (there are no French regulations on the thickness of the plating). It is therefore also a very fragile finish: gold fades quickly with time, water or perspiration.

Gold plated

Gold plating is made by an electrical process: a layer of gold is deposited on a metal (often brass) using an electric current in a bath containing gold ions. This process allows the gold to be fixed uniformly . The minimum thickness of 3 microns of the plating is subject to French legislation . This gives a gold jewel which is resistant to water , to life, and patinates nicely over time for good value for money .

Gold filled

Gold-filled is a technique originating in the United States that involves mechanically pressing a layer of 14-carat gold onto a brass base. The weight of the gold corresponds to one-twentieth of the total weight of the product, which is 50 to 100 times that of a gold-plated product.

Even more sustainable , stable and water resistant than gold plating, this gilding is ideal for everyday jewelry .

Finishes	Thickness	Sustainability	Contact with water	Ideal for
Gilded with fine gold	≃ 0.03 microns	very weak: a few weeks or months	not recommended	. costume jewelry . occasional wear
Gold plated	≥ 3 microns (mandatory)	good durability: 5 years or more (slow patina)	resists well	. regular use . good value for money . lasting shine
Gold filled	up to 50x more than plated	excellent: 10 to 30 years or even for life	adapted	. daily use . water resistant . premium quality . sensitive skin

Other gilding

In addition to these main gildings, there are several other types of gold finishes that are a little less used in jewelry.  

Vermeil : Solid silver covered with a 5 micron layer of gold (regulated in France) - Good durability, safe for sensitive skin, expensive.

Gold flash (or flash gilding) : An extremely thin layer of gold (often < 0.03 microns) deposited by galvanization - Very economical but fades very quickly.

Rolled gold (different from gold filled) : Gold leaves pressed onto a base metal, but without meeting the criteria for gold filled - Real gold appearance, unregulated, very variable quality.

The choice of quality

For Camille Aime, I chose to create gold-plated and gold-filled jewelry . Two durable finishes, designed to last a long time.

Gold -filled is ultra-resistant and perfect for everyday jewelry. However, its manufacturing technique (pressing) limits the creation of certain complex shapes...

This is where gold plating comes in! It allows for even gilding, even on the most detailed pieces. Ideal for fine and original designs.

The result: durable, elegant, and carefully designed jewelry, combining style and quality over time.

I hope these explanations have helped you see things more clearly! Don't hesitate to ask me questions or ask for advice, I'll be happy to answer you!